Location: Chiayi
Distance: 25km Elevation Gain: 900m
The Stelvio Pass, Alpe d’Huez, Sa Calobra, Trollstigen…These are what most cyclists would talk about when discussing roads famous for hairpin turns. Ask a Taiwan cyclist, they would think of the Meishan 36 Bends. Similar to Alpe d’Huez, this climb is not the highest, hardest, or most beautiful climb available…but it’s definitely unique and remains one of the most popular and storied climbs on the island. A suspension bridge, an old street, numbered corners, and no shortage of stunning views over the Chianan Plain, make this a bucket list ride for any cyclist in Taiwan.
The 36 Bends are located in the northeast corner of Chiayi County. Starting points include Chiayi City, Douliou, and Yunlin, but cyclists with their own transportation will start the climb in the small town of Meishan. From there the route climbs at around 6.5% for 11km with an elevation gain of 700m. Leaving Meishan, head East on County Road 162A. Ample signage marks the way.
The first of the 36 bends comes about 3 km from Meishan village. Here you will get your first glimpse of the signs that count hairpins upward from #1 to #36 as you ascend to the summit. Each corner is marked by two signs; one modern bright red sign, and one older brown sign, both of which display the numbered corner and current elevation. The brown signs provide information and distances to popular tourist destinations in the area, while the red signs offer up a motivational quote. Your new found inspiration will surely translate to a personal best 20-minute effort! It may even lead you to victory one day on the annual Meishan 36 Bends cycling challenge event which climbs this route each year.
Looking up at the mountains that tower above you, you will see a suspension bridge connecting two peaks. That is your destination. As you start to wind your way from one corner to the next you will be immersed with views of the betel nut trees which line the lower mountains of this area. The perfect road surface and consistent gradient between 5-9% make this an excellent training climb and an overall enjoyable experience.
On a clear day, as you climb higher, you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the valley below. A birds eye view of the clusters of white rooftops from nearby villages and towns make it feel as if you were looking down at a map. During the winter months, you will most likely break above the clouds/pollution at around 600 m of elevation and see a solid line separating the blue sky and white clouds.
At 730m/corner #22 you will pass a sign welcoming you to Alishan National Scenic Area. For those not going for a KOM it is a great natural stopping point for a look out over the valley and some photos. Clipping back in you will be encouraged by the shouts from car windows of “Jaiyou!” as the spirits of passers-by increase with the more comfortable air and higher elevation.
Nearing the top, the betel nut trees are replaced with high-altitude tea fields that cover the mountain floor in every direction. As you pass turn #36 you will continue under the suspension bridge which was once a distance speck in the distance. The Taiping Suspension Bridge which stretches 281m is one of the longest and highest of its type in Taiwan and on the weekend will be swarmed with tourists getting ready for a hike or starting their day exploring the old town. There are plenty of places to stop for coffee, snacks, and a break where Taiping Old Town marks the end of the climb. The streets are lined with traditional Japanese-style buildings and vendors selling local snacks, coffee, and other standard old street wares. Most cyclists will end up at the 7-11, there will likely already be 5-10 bikes leaning against the window and cyclists looking out taking a good look at the new arrival.
While the 36 Bends climb is a worthy destination in its own right, it also serves as the gateway to some of the best cycling routes in Taiwan. Almost all who reach Taiping Old Street will continue on to make a larger loop before heading home. Taking a left up the 151 will bring you to some beautiful narrow roads and the summit of ErjianShan (1279m) then back on the 149 which descends through the Huashan Coffee Village. The Meishan 36 Bends annual race proceeds to the right on the 154 before looping back through Zuqi. The most common route would be to continue straight on the 162A which heads through the small towns of Ruifang and Ruili and then descends to Zuqi. Cyclists with some serious grit might choose to head to Fenqihu and onward toward Alishan NFRA.
Regardless of which route you choose, prepare for an exhilarating day of riding and return again someday to further explore one of the best cycling playgrounds on Earth.
Here is the GPS info for this route:
Good job, Tim. Very enjoyable read.