I wrote this a couple years ago for an online lesson. Here is it on my blog – enjoy.
Taiwan offers some of the best cycling in Asia. The network of roads that wind throughout the mountainous terrain is a hill climber’s dream come true. Since Taiwan is located in a topical area one can ride a bicycle nearly anytime during the year. In this essay, you will read about the different types of cycling destinations, routes, and of course the famous huandao (環島) – a rite of passage: to ride around the island.
Northern Taiwan
The weather in Taipei can be a bit fickle however they say there are around 200 dry days a year in northern Taiwan. November sees the least amount of rainfall while June is the wettest month of the year. The actual cycling in Taipei city itself is not for the faint of heart. In the center of the city, there are a lot of buses, cars, scooters, and pedestrians, however, the riverside cycling paths are an excellent way to navigate around the city. From the city center, there are hills almost in any direction you cycle. Some of the famous locations are Yangming-shan, Dongyang-shan, Maokong, and Wuzhishan. Each hill climb offers a slightly different experience however the hills in Taipei do not exceed 1100 meters of elevation. Unlike central Taiwan, there are a few groups of volcanoes – the Tatun, Chilung, and Guanyin volcano groups, no need to worry they have been inactive for some time. Aside from the hill climbs in Northern Taiwan the coast ride from Hongshulin to Jinshan offers a flatter route however at a fast pace this ride can also be a challenge. Almost every Saturday morning around 6 a.m. you will find a group of cyclists, often triathletes racing out to Jinshan and then returning to Taipei.
Central Taiwan
Central Taiwan offers some hilly routes and majestic landscapes. From Miaoli to Chiayi you can cover over 300 kilometers of hilly terrain. Also if you are up for a challenge the famous climb to Wuling starts in the geological center of Taiwan in Puli. This route is 55 kilometers however the entire journey is uphill. If you have a chance to climb up to Wuling it is best to do it in October or November – you will have the best weather. This climb is not for the faint of heart; the summit peaks at 3275 meters above sea level. Generally speaking, it does not rain as much as it does in the north. In central Taiwan, most of the routes consist of single-lane farming roads and conventional two-lane roads. Be sure to wear a helmet and follow the traffic signals. If you are looking for a more casual day ride you can rent a bicycle at Sun Moon Lake and enjoy an easy afternoon around part of the lake. If you would like to ride from Taichung to Sun Moon Lake the excursion can take all day. It can vary from 125 kilometers to 160 kilometers or more depending on your departure location. The Tatajia climb is also worth mentioning, this road was built by the Japanese and the gradient is much more forgiving compared to the Wuling climb. The Tatajia climb needs to be done during the day because the park at the top of the hill is gated. If you intend to descend from one side of the mountain you need to start before they close the gate.
East Coast of Taiwan
The East Coast of Taiwan might be one of the best places to ride a road bike in Taiwan. Access to Hualien or Taidong via train is one way to get to the east coast. Of course, you can ride there, from Taipei you would need to ride to Yilan and then consider the dangerous Suhua highway. Many cyclists often take the train from Yilan to Hualien. The Suhua highway is 118 kilometers long and built alongside very steep cliffs high above the Pacific Ocean. There are many large trucks and other vehicles that use this road, also there are many tunnels. Most people avoid cycling on this road. The train ride from Yilan to Hualien is inexpensive, around two hours and you can put your bike on the train. Once you are in Hualien you should see the Taroko Gorge on a bike. From Hualien to the Taroko Gorge the ride is about 25 kilometers, you will be climbing up highway 8: this is the famous Taiwan KOM Challenge – one of the longest paved hill climbs in the world. Riding up to the gorge is not that difficult of a ride, however, if you intend to climb all the way to top you need to start early in the morning and be prepared for a long day on the bike.
My personal account of riding the Suhua Highway:
Yesterday I rode from Hualien to Yilan (Luodong) – the Suhua Highway. I would be crazy to say this is a safe route, it is not, danger lurks. Here are a few observations, details, and suggestions.
1. The route is around 120km+/- depending on where you start/finish. There are 3 distinct climbs and a few minor rollers. The highest elevation mark is only around 350m – this is a moderately hilly ride, no epic knee breaking inclines, however, I did feel this ride the next day.
2. I have done this route from north to south and south to north. My suggestion is the Hualien to Yilan route is better. Reasons: Almost all of the tunnels (there are *many tunnels) you will be riding downhill while inside these cave-like structures. Every tunnel had working lights yesterday – however, the traffic inside these tunnels is extremely dangerous so please be extra cautious. Not for the faint of heart. When I did the ride from Yilan to Hualien I was smart enough to do it during Chinese New Year on the big dinner night – there was almost zero traffic. I would not want to climb those tunnels during a normal traffic day. The second reason for riding south to north is the superb view. You will be riding along the edge of the cliff – and the views are much better. They are priceless.
3. Gear – you need lights – red flashing lights on your back/bike and maybe even a reflective vest. I didn’t have a vest yesterday and I did fine without – however, if I do the ride again I will wear a vest. Second safety piece I wish I had: a rearview mirror. I did not wear my earphones yesterday so I could hear any approaching truck/bus – however, a tiny rearview mirror would have been great.
4. There are plenty of places to stop for water and food – so that is not a big deal.
5. The myth that the truck drivers are out to kill you is complete hearsay! The truck drivers actually were the overly generous guys. They pulled well into the oncoming lane, very nice of them. However, the bus drivers can all go jump in a lake! These guys did not give me any room at all.
6. During the ride yesterday, there was a lot of road work along the way. I was stopped many times. The longest wait was around 10 minutes. This was also helpful because once the traffic flowed through; the road was all mine – so I did a good portion of the riding on an empty road, especially the downhill sections – I timed them just right.
7. Hopefully, in the near future, the tunnels will be complete and this road will become a cycling destination – I saw tons of new tunnels in the making. Only speculation, but man, this is really one of the best coast roads in far-east Asia.
8. My view is certainly a bit skewed, my tolerance for traffic is rather high. I know this is a dangerous route, perhaps it is best done on a Sunday very early in the morning – who knows.
9. There are potholes, the silent killers. And if you have a serious mechanical problem, just hitch-hike. Also, the signs on this road are at odds with one another. Every tunnel has a no-bicycle sign posted at the entrance, however, there are also signs for cycling around Taiwan every 5km.
10. Take this all with a grain of salt, many excellent routes on the island; this road will one day fall into the Pacific Ocean I fear.
Aside from the dangerous yet beautiful Suhua Highway, the east coast offers both Hwy 11 and Hwy 9 the East Rift Valley. Hwy 11 runs along the coast from Hualien to Taidong. This road is generally safe with a wide shoulder for scooters and bicycles. There are no extended climbs however this road is not flat. It is a 160km ride from Hualien to Taidong. If you are in good shape it is possible to do the route in one day. If you opt for Hwy 9 you will be riding in a valley and there are more places to refuel or find shelter if it starts to rain. The East Rift Valley conceals a host of aboriginal cultures and magnificent natural landscapes.
There are a few connections between Hwy 11 and Hwy 9, the most popular is the Yuchang Tunnel: Hwy 30. This is a 5km climb from Hwy 11 to the start of the tunnel. The tunnel is about 2km, rather long but there is a wide shoulder for motorcycles and bicycles. Also, it is well ventilated and the over-head lighting is satisfactory. The second connection is a more scenic route from Fuli to Donghe over Hwy 23. This hill reaches a peak elevation of 700 meters above sea level. There is also a connection from Ruishui to Hwy 11 via Hua 64, this road offers some majestic views of pristine natural countryside.
Southern Taiwan
Kaohsiung is the largest and most southern metropolis in Taiwan. There are hills near the city, Monkey Mountain located in the Gushan District is a nearby route for both the road bike and the mountain bike. Getting outside of the city and exploring Pingtung County you can find a challenging climb up Hwy 24. This is, unfortunately, an out and back ride however the views are not to be missed. The weather is usually a bit hotter in southern Taiwan. If you are in the area and have time to ride to Kending, cycling from Hengchun or Kending is great. Depending on what time of the year you are there, it could be extremely windy. The loop on 200 or riding up 199 are both superb. From Hengchun to Taidong the route is hilly however if you leave early enough you can ride the 130 kilometers in one day. At the time of writing this, the southern cross is still closed and will be closed until all the road work is complete.
Huandao – Cycling around the Island
Overall this 968-kilometer route is mostly flat, along the coast, and relatively safe. The government has marked the road: Route 1. These signs are easy to see and follow the entire way. The direction of the wind is perhaps the single most important thing to consider when you take on this tour. In the winter the wind blows from north to south, while in the summer generally the wind blows south to north, however, a typhoon can alter the wind direction. Finding accommodations during this 10 to 12-day trip is easy and affordable. Camping is an option, however, most people opt for a comfortable bed and a nice shower after riding all day long. As for what type of bike to ride, a road bike or a straight bar bike with 25-28mm tires would be wise. I would advise against riding a mountain bike with knobby tires around the island. You have to carry your gear with you, so the best advice is to go as light as you can. During the spring, summer and fall are the best time to do this tour. Best of luck with any cycling adventure you may have a chance to do while in Taiwan.