Location: Taichung/Nantou County
Distance: 74km Elevation Gain: 1,050m
In our two previous posts, #071 and #072, we outlined routes that traverse from Hsinchu in northern Taiwan to Taichung in central Taiwan through the hills that run parallel to the central mountains. This is an excellent alternative route to avoid the more congested and populated west coast.
In this post, we continue south and into central Taiwan to deliver a ride that takes the cyclist from Wufeng District in Taichung to the shores of Sun Moon Lake in Nantou County.
From Wufeng, the rider follows Provincial Highway No. 3 south for 10 kilometers on a gently undulating ride to Caotun. A left turn here gets you onto Provincial Highway No. 14 heading due east into the hills. This is the best place to pick up supplies since there are very few shops over the next 20 kilometers, with the exception of one 7-11 at the 23km marker on the No. 14.
This is an excellent approach road to the central mountains and is extensively covered in #002 of our series from Puli to Wuling, the highest mountain pass in Taiwan. In the past, this was an extremely busy road, but since Freeway No. 6 opened as a means to convey traffic to the Nantou area in 2009, the No. 14 is a much more pleasant ride with a lot less traffic.
Although not a major climb, it will become obvious to the rider that you are ascending all the way. After 10 to 15km the scenic area of the ’99 Peak Nature Reserve’ comes into view. This is a popular hiking location: 99 Peaks.
Continuing on the No. 14, there are two other points of interest: first, the road crisscrosses the Wu River at several points, and second, there are six tunnels to pass through. Fortunately, the latter are all short and pose no cause for concern since the end of each can be seen upon entering.
Around 45km into the ride, you’ll arrive at Puli, the geographical center of Taiwan, at an elevation of 450m. Traffic is much heavier around this area, and there are a couple of nasty intersections that didn’t take cyclists into account. Puli is a bustling town with lots of accommodation options and the best place to fuel up for the next section.
From Puli, the fastest way to get to Sun Moon Lake is on Provincial Highway No. 21, but this can be really busy on weekends. A far better option is to take County Road No. 131. This is a dream road for cyclists, not much traffic and lush with forest and farms. After 10km, we attempted to get to Sun Moon Lake on Local Road Tou 69, but this was closed for road works. Not a major issue since the No. 131 connects to the No. 21 passing through the town of Yuchi.
There is a gradual ascent up to 800m here, and after a few kilometers, you’ll arrive at the north end of the lake. Take a left turn here onto Provincial Highway No. 21A to ride clockwise around the lake and directly to Ita Thao where most accommodation on the lake is located. This has much less traffic, and there is the option of using the purpose-built bike way, more info here: SML Cycling.
After 10km around the lake, you’ll come to Ita Thao, which is the major tourist hub. This is about the best place to spend the night, eat, etc. One caveat with any cycling around the lake – it’s awash with day trippers on various forms of E-bikes, and accidents are a daily occurrence. Steer clear.
GPS info: